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Designing with permaculture

Stacking in space and time

Terra Humana editorial teamLast updated: 2026-10-169 min read

Lush home garden on a mountain slope in several layers: tall trees, banana plants, shrubs and climbing beans

In brief

A permaculture technique that lets several plants share the same ground, layered by height and root depth in space and following each other in time.

What stacking is for

A field of one crop uses one level of space for one season. Everything above and below that level, and everything before and after that season, stays empty or is taken by weeds. Stacking is the art of filling these gaps on purpose. Several plants share the same ground because each uses a different part of it: a different height, a different depth of soil, a different time of year, a different stage in the life of the system.

Bill Mollison named two forms of it, plant stacking and time stacking, and counted both among the small-scale intensive systems that let a small, well-tended area yield much. The model is the forest: light is caught by the crowns, filtered through the understorey and used once more near the ground, while roots reach water at different depths.

Stacking should not be confused with stacking functions, the rule that each element should do several jobs at once, which element analysis explores.

Stacking in space: the layers

The usual model of a temperate forest garden goes back to Robert Hart, who turned his orchard in Shropshire into a food forest in the 1980s. He described seven layers:

  • Canopy: the tallest fruit and nut trees.
  • Low trees: smaller fruit and nut trees, often on dwarfing rootstocks.
  • Shrubs: berries and other fruiting bushes.
  • Herbaceous layer: perennial vegetables and herbs.
  • Ground cover: creeping plants that protect the soil, a form of living mulch.
  • Root layer: tubers and roots below the surface.
  • Vertical layer: climbers that use trees and supports.

Hart preferred shade-tolerant perennial vegetables to sun-loving annuals, since the latter fit poorly under trees. Martin Crawford, who developed the approach further in Devon, advises filling the layers gradually over several years rather than all at once.

Ernst Götsch orders his plantings differently. In descriptions of syntropic agriculture, the strata are defined less by height than by how much light a species needs at maturity, from emergent trees that want full sun to low plants that thrive in partial shade.

Stacking also happens below ground. Deep-rooted trees, shallow-rooted herbs and tubers draw water and nutrients from different horizons, and nitrogen-fixing plants feed their neighbours through roots and fallen leaves.

Stacking in time: from season to succession

Within a year, time stacking means sowing the next crop before the last one ends. Deep Green Permaculture gives the example of sowing broad beans in the cool season while tomatoes fade, so that the bed is never left bare.

Over years, time stacking becomes ecological succession guided by the gardener. Fast pioneer plants and nurse trees give shade, biomass and shelter early on, while slow, long-lived trees grow up among them. The pioneers are cut back step by step and their mass goes to the soil as mulch. As the page on food forests describes, the share of helpers is high at the start and the productive trees carry the stand at the end; the mass planted early is not wasted but consumed into shade and soil.

The longest form of time stacking is measured in decades. On the website for Holmgren's principles, Rowan Reid of the Bambra Agroforestry Farm in Australia describes trees he planted in 1987 on a patch of alluvial soil: poplars, to be harvested for veneer once they reach 55 centimetres in diameter, and black walnuts that are to keep growing for another forty years after that. One planting, two harvests, a generation apart.

How to plan a stacked planting

  1. Start with the long-lived core. Choose the canopy and low trees first and space them by their size at maturity, not by their size in the pot.
  2. Draw a timeline as well as a plan. For each species note when it yields, how long it lives and when it will be shaded out or cut back. A simple table with years along the top is enough.
  3. Fill the gaps with temporary layers. Pioneers, ground cover, annual crops and short-lived shrubs occupy the space the trees will claim later.
  4. Match each layer to its light. Sun-loving plants on the sunny edges and in young plantings, shade-tolerant ones under established crowns. Sectors and microclimate tell where the light falls.
  5. Plan the cuts. Decide in advance which plants will be pruned or removed, and when, to make room for the next stage.

An example from the world: the Chagga home gardens

On the southern slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, the Chagga have tended home gardens called kihamba for generations. FAO recognised the Shimbwe Juu Kihamba Agro-forestry Heritage Site as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System in 2011; the designated site covers 615 hectares. According to FAO, the gardens have four main layers: widely spaced trees on top that give shade, medicine, fodder, fruit, firewood and timber, and fix nitrogen; several varieties of banana beneath them; coffee below the bananas; and vegetables of many kinds, including climbers, at the lowest level. The system holds over 500 used plants, about 400 of them not cultivated but kept in place. Traditional canals bring water from the mountain forest. The kihamba is stacking at its most mature: not a design from a book, but a garden refined over a very long time.

Common mistakes

  • More layers than water. In a dry climate, the number of layers is limited by water, not by ideas. Each plant drinks, and a crowded planting can suffer in a long summer.
  • Trees too close together. Spacing by nursery size leads to a canopy that closes years too early and shades out everything below.
  • Annual vegetables in deep shade. Most annual crops need full sun. Under trees, shade-tolerant perennials do better.
  • Pioneers left too long. A pioneer that is not cut back on time becomes a competitor rather than a helper.

Further in the TerraWiki

Stacking at Sa Medada

Sa Medada is a slope in Jerzu, in Ogliastra on the east side of Sardinia, with mild winters and a dry season from about May to September. The growing areas of Project Eden are conceived as food forests: fruit and nut trees, supporting shrubs, herbs and ground cover brought together into layered communities, drawing on permaculture and syntropic succession. Bananas, mango, avocado, guava, cherimoya, papaya and citrus, among others, already grow in the open beside the old olive grove. Nitrogen fixers such as Tephrosia, the coral tree, Inga edulis and Leucaena are in the ground without inoculation.

Time stacking at Sa Medada follows the climate. As the page on syntropic agriculture explains, pruning happens when rainfall exceeds evaporation, which here means winter and spring, and in summer every bit of shade stays, because there it protects more than any layer of mulch. Project Eden begins with pioneer plants, ground cover and holding water: the first layers that make the later ones possible.

Plants in this entry

Frequently asked

What is stacking in permaculture?

Stacking means letting several plants use the same piece of ground at once or one after another. In space, tall trees, smaller trees, shrubs, herbs, ground cover, climbers and root crops each take their own level, above and below the soil. In time, crops overlap through the year, and over many years fast pioneer plants give way to slower, longer-lived trees. Bill Mollison spoke of plant stacking and time stacking as part of small-scale intensive systems, which yield much from a small, well-tended area.

What are the seven layers of a forest garden?

The usual count goes back to Robert Hart, who turned an orchard in Shropshire into a forest garden in the 1980s. The layers are: a canopy of tall fruit and nut trees, a lower layer of smaller trees, a shrub layer with berries, a herbaceous layer of perennial vegetables and herbs, a ground cover of creeping plants, a root layer of tubers and roots below the soil, and a vertical layer of climbers. Not every garden needs all seven; they are a guide for looking, not a checklist.

What is time stacking?

Time stacking means planning crops so that the next one starts before the last one ends. Within a year, a cool-season crop such as broad beans can be sown while warm-season tomatoes fade, so the bed is never bare. Over years, it means planting fast species that yield early alongside slow ones that yield late. Rowan Reid in Australia planted poplars and black walnuts together in 1987; the poplars are harvested first, and the walnuts are left to grow for another forty years.

Does stacking work in a dry climate?

It works, but it has to be built around water. In cool, cloudy climates light is the scarce resource, and layers compete for it. In a summer-dry climate such as the Mediterranean, light is plentiful and water is short, so each layer must earn its place. Shade from upper layers cools the soil and slows evaporation, which helps the plants below; but every additional plant also drinks. Dense layering usually comes after ground cover and water retention are in place, not before.

How does Terra Humana use stacking at Sa Medada?

The growing areas of Project Eden are conceived as food forests that combine fruit and nut trees, supporting shrubs, herbs and ground cover into layered communities, drawing on permaculture and syntropic succession. Several nitrogen fixers, such as Tephrosia, the coral tree and Inga edulis, already grow in the ground. Pruning follows a rule taken from the principle rather than from tropical practice: cut when rainfall exceeds evaporation, which at Sa Medada means winter and spring, and keep every bit of shade in summer.

Notebook with landscape sketches, compass and trowel on a stone at the edge of a hillside at dawn, mist in the valleyNext in this themeThe design processThe ordered steps of a permaculture design, from observing site and people through analysis and design to building, care and review, repeated in loops.

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Further reading from around the world

Freely available sources we recommend for going deeper.

Sources

  • Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay, Introduction to Permaculture, Tagari Publications (1991)
  • Robert Hart, Forest Gardening, Green Books (1991)
  • Martin Crawford, Creating a Forest Garden: Working with Nature to Grow Edible Crops, Green Books (2010)
  • FAO, Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems: Shimbwe Juu Kihamba Agro-forestry Heritage Site, Tanzania, fao.org (accessed October 2026)
  • David Holmgren, Permaculture Principles, Principle 12: Creatively use and respond to change, permacultureprinciples.com (accessed October 2026)
  • Deep Green Permaculture, Permaculture design principle 7: small-scale intensive systems, deepgreenpermaculture.com (accessed October 2026)

Last updated: 2026-10-16