In brief
Collecting rain from a roof through gutter and filters into a closed, dark tank, so that winter rain can water garden and animals in the dry season.
What roof water harvesting is
A roof is the most dependable catchment there is. It is hard, sloped and already built, and the water running off it is far cleaner than water that has crossed the ground. Roof water harvesting collects that runoff through gutters and downpipes, frees it of leaves and dust and stores it in a closed tank, the cistern, until it is needed. Where rain falls in winter and the dry season lasts for months, the cistern does what the soil cannot: it carries water from the wet half of the year into the dry half.
It is the counterpart to the earthworks described under rainwater harvesting. The soil stores water in the slope, unseen and shared by every root; the cistern keeps it in a container, measured and ready at the tap.
How much a roof yields
The arithmetic is simple, because one millimetre of rain on one square metre is exactly one litre. The yield in litres is roof area times rainfall in millimetres times a runoff coefficient. Roof area means the footprint seen from above: a steep roof catches no more rain than a flat one with the same plan. The coefficient covers what never reaches the tank, water that wets the surface, evaporates or splashes past the gutter. For hard roofs of metal or tile, guides usually calculate with about 0.8 to 0.9, for gravel or planted roofs with much less.
An example with assumed figures: 100 square metres of roof, 600 millimetres of rain a year, a coefficient of 0.8. That gives 100 × 600 × 0.8 = 48,000 litres, 48 cubic metres a year. Reality takes some away. Laboratory tests on ceramic tiles found coefficients above 0.9 in moderate and heavy rain, but far lower ones in light drizzle, which the tiles largely absorb. The first flush is diverted, and whatever falls on a full tank runs over. In the Mediterranean one more limit weighs heavily: nearly all the water arrives in the cool months, when the garden needs little. What is available in August depends less on the roof than on the size of the cistern.
From gutter to tank
The water passes four stations. First gutter and downpipe, with enough fall that nothing stands in them. Then a leaf guard, a screen or downpipe filter that keeps out leaves, twigs and needles. Third, the first flush diverter. The first rain after a dry spell rinses the roof of dust, pollen and droppings, and this first portion fills a small chamber before the cleaner water flows on. How much to divert is not fixed; the Texas rainwater manual names about 0.4 to 0.8 litres per square metre of roof, and more makes sense under trees. The chamber is emptied after each rain.
Fourth, the cistern. Concrete and masonry are heavy, durable and keep water cool; rainwater is naturally slightly acidic and very soft, and in such tanks it takes up some minerals from the walls. Polyethylene tanks are light and cheaper, steel tanks need a lining against corrosion. Whatever the material, the enemies are light and warmth: light feeds algae, warmth speeds up spoiling. A cistern is therefore opaque and closed, ideally underground or at least in shade. A calmed inlet keeps incoming water from stirring up the sediment on the floor, a floating intake draws from just below the surface, and vents and overflow are screened against mosquitoes and small animals.
The overflow belongs in the plan from the start. Instead of vanishing into a drain, the surplus can run into a planted basin, a bed under mulch or a level swale on the slope, where it soaks in like the rest of the rain, well away from foundations.
What the water serves
Roof water suits the garden: soft, free of chlorine and at hand when summer is longest. It goes furthest with methods that waste nothing, drip lines or ollas, clay pots buried in the bed and refilled from the tank. Animals can drink it if the tank is kept clean. In the house it can flush toilets through a separate, clearly marked pipe system that never meets the drinking water supply, and after that first use part of it can return to the land as greywater. Drinking it is another matter: untreated roof water can carry germs, so it needs filtration, disinfection and regular testing first.
Cisterns in Mediterranean history
Where rivers are few and summers long, cisterns are old. In the Punic city of Tharros on Sardinia's west coast, the excavated water system includes several cisterns of the type called "a bagnarola", long basins with rounded ends, a form typical of the Punic world that stayed in use in Roman Sardinia; the private ones collected rainwater for the household. In Malta, after the Great Siege of 1565, the builders of Valletta, on a peninsula without springs, required every house to have an underground rainwater tank; the Maltese still call these cisterns wells. Malta also shows the limit: a cholera epidemic in the 1860s exposed how many cisterns had been fouled by leaking sewers and cesspits. A cistern is only as clean as its roof, its filters and its care.
Frequently asked
How much rainwater can I collect from my roof?
One millimetre of rain on one square metre gives one litre. Multiply the roof's footprint in square metres, seen from above, by the annual rainfall in millimetres and by a runoff coefficient, which for hard roofs of metal or tile is usually taken as about 0.8 to 0.9. A roof of 100 square metres with an assumed 600 millimetres of rain and a coefficient of 0.8 gives 48,000 litres a year. In practice it is less, because light drizzle barely runs off, the first flush is diverted and a full tank overflows. In a Mediterranean climate the size of the cistern usually limits the summer supply more than the roof does.
What is a first flush diverter?
It is a small device between the downpipe and the cistern that catches the first water of each rain and keeps it out of the tank. After a dry spell that first portion carries most of what has settled on the roof: dust, pollen, leaf debris, bird droppings. A standpipe or chamber fills with it first, and only then does the cleaner water flow on into the cistern. There is no single rule for the volume; the Texas rainwater manual, for instance, recommends about 0.4 to 0.8 litres per square metre of roof, and more is sensible after long dry periods or under trees. The chamber has to be emptied after every rain.
Should a cistern be above ground or underground?
Both work, as long as the water stays dark and cool. Underground tanks keep an even, low temperature all year, take no space and are protected from frost and sun, but they cost more to build and usually need a pump. Above-ground tanks are cheaper and easier to install, and if they stand higher than the garden they can deliver by gravity. They must be opaque and should stand in the shade, because light lets algae grow and warmth speeds up everything that spoils water. Whatever the choice, the tank needs a calmed inlet, an intake just below the surface and screened openings.
Can you drink rainwater from a cistern?
Not without treatment. Roof water can carry germs from bird and animal droppings, as well as substances washed off the roof or out of the air. Anyone who wants to drink it needs a suitable roof material, a well-kept first flush and filtration, a disinfection step such as ultraviolet light, and regular testing of the water. History shows why: in Malta, a cholera epidemic in the 1860s exposed how many cisterns had been fouled by leaking sewers and cesspits. For the garden, for animals and for flushing toilets, roof water needs far less effort and is often better suited than tap water.
Where should the overflow of a cistern go?
Into the land rather than into a drain. Every cistern overflows sooner or later, and that surplus is still clean rainwater. Led into a planted basin, a mulched bed or a level ditch along the contour, it soaks in like the rest of the rain and moistens the soil for trees and shrubs. The overflow should leave the tank slightly below the inlet, be screened against mosquitoes and small animals, and discharge at a safe distance from foundations and walls. In that way the cistern and the earthworks on the slope become one system: the tank keeps what can be used later, the soil keeps the rest.

Related terms






Mentioned in
Permaculture principles at work here
The design principles after David Holmgren that this page puts into practice.
Sources
- Texas Water Development Board, The Texas Manual on Rainwater Harvesting, 3rd ed. (2005)
- Brad Lancaster, Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond, Vol. 1: Guiding Principles, 3rd ed. (2019)
- Silveira A., de Lima J. L. M. P., Dinis C., Abrantes J. R. C. B., Influence of rainfall intensity on the production of runoff on ceramic tile roofs, Engenharia Sanitária e Ambiental 23(4) (2018)
- Regione Autonoma della Sardegna, Sardegna Virtual Archaeology: Tharros, the water system (online)
- Robert Ghirlando, Malta's underground water world, Il-Bizzilla 125 (2023)
Last updated: 2026-10-15